The Bruery’s ‘Tart of Darkness’
While some uncommon beer styles are simply those whose recipes have been lost to time or have otherwise fallen out of favor, occasionally they are in fact a novel fusion between two existing styles. The Bruery’s ‘Tart of Darkness’ is an example of the latter, combining the rich roasted malts of a stout with the ripe acidity and puckering mouthfeel of a sour ale. While there is some historical precedence for adding small quantities of soured ales to stouts, The Bruery’s modern take on the idea embraces the concept far more thoroughly. Will sour stouts be the new black IPA? I sure hope so.
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‘TART OF DARKNESS’ – THE BRUERY – Sour Stout aged in oak barrels – 7.00% ABV (Eye Choir’s Choice)
Appearance: Poured a very dark and vaguely reddish brown with slight violet ruby highlights and a two-finger, greyish beige head. There is a large amount of sediment, though it is barely visible through the dark color, as is any carbonation. 4.5/5
Smell: Strong acetic horseblanket aroma and hints at a fermented fruit juice which blends into a strong vinous syrah grape, balsalmic vinegar, and dark cherry aroma. Roast malt with chocolate, boozy molasses, and rum notes eventually rise up from underneath, meeting halfway with coffee cake and figs. Absolutely weird, but somehow, the malt does not get in the way of the strong yeast aromas, if anything stabilizing them considerably. If nothing else, a piquing of curiosity, one that is well-balanced and rich. 5/5
Taste: Strong tartness dominates the palate, bringing along a hefty, slightly-oxidized apple cider vinegar flavor that informs the dark berry flavors. This lends a florid coffee note to the mild to moderate sweetness that eventually filters in, with slight bourbon barrel vanilla notes further expanding and softening the heady, sour yeast. The woody tannins on the mildly bitter finish along with the malt roast diminish the acidity somewhat, letting some of the earthier aspects of the yeast show through. Really inventive and dynamic, on top of a slightly absurd yet delicious foundation. 4.5/5
Mouthfeel: Light to medium body, though with a distinctly fuller smoothness typical of a stout. Nonetheless, this is initially interrupted with a tongue-piercingly sharp burst of puckering carbonation, though by the end, this fades considerably, leaving a slick, lighter body, though it features no substantial alcoholic heat. 4/5
Overall: A completely off the wall concept for a beer that is miraculously pulled into a workable format where the malts seem to provide actual value to the rest of the typical sour ale profile, instead of just being a novelty. Surprisingly good balance, all things considered. 4.5/5
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‘VERLOREN’ – SAM ADAMS – Gose brewed with salt and coriander – 6.00% ABV
Appearance: Pours a moderate golden orange with a two finger, eggshell head. There is a relatively large amount of fine haziness which mostly hides the minimal carbonation. 3.5/5
Smell: Very strong impression of perfume-like coriander and musty, hay-like yeast with hints of citrus fruit, as well as a hint of an odd mineral taste reminiscent of a dry Riesling. There is a background of mild, lightly toasted wheat, though this could stand to be stronger. against the musty spice notes. A little flat and not particularly detailed, but certainly interesting. 3.5/5
Taste: Flavors coalesce in a very unconventional way: the moderate tartness brings forth notes of musty lemongrass and coriander, and lends a vaguely soapy flavor which blends with a mild to moderate saltiness. Clean whole-grain bread malt notes provide a context, which gradually fades into a mild bitterness. This bitterness connects the musty yeast flavors to some subtle spicy hops. Again, interesting, but quite unusual, to the point where the composition is questionable. 3/5
Mouthfeel: Light bodied, with a watery mouthfeel that in combination with the salty taste and lack of malt character is vaguely unpleasant. Some minor carbonation gives a bite that meshes fairly well with the spiciness of the beer though. 2.5/5
Overall: Fascinating variety of flavors, though there are some balance issues with the mouthfeel, and the beer as a whole could stand to have a little more direction and forcefulness. 3/5
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‘FIRST SPARROW’ – WHITE BIRCH – Grodziskie – 3.80% ABV
Appearance: Poured a slightly light golden orange with amber highlights and a two-finger, light beige head. Slight haziness is present, but a mild carbonation is still visible. 3.5/5
Smell: Sweet wood smokiness up front is supported by a reasonably sturdy but a little stark whole wheat dough malt. These mix with a light fruit character which synthesizes strains of banana bread and a touch of white grape. A mild note of spicy and grassy hops melds with a lightly sour earthy yeast hidden under the charred wood notes. Eye-catching without being ostentatious, with a reasonably well-arranged collection of details. 4/5
Taste: An immediately mild to moderate tartness shoots out, with a minimal sweetness that brings out an acerbic charcoal and balances the light, clover-like hop oil. A bit of water cracker and white bread malt notes creep out from below. However, a mild to moderate bitterness sweeps them away, in a dry finish that marries the smoke with a funky yeast flavor reminiscent of dirty hay. A little bolder than the aroma, though this doesn’t correspond to an increase in complexity. 3.5/5
Mouthfeel: Light bodied with a bright, slightly sharp carbonation which balances the dark smokiness and highlights the mild fruit. No alcoholic heat and a very smooth yet watery mouthfeel is a good match for dry, refreshing earthiness which envelops a subtle malt. 3.5/5
Overall: Not the strongest tasting, though given the small alcohol content and highly sessionable mouthfeel, harbors a reasonably balanced flavor profile which features some appealing subtleties. 3.5/5
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ROGGENBOCK – TRIUMPH – Roggenbier – 6.80% ABV
Appearance: Poured a dark orange-brown with a one finger, orange-tan head. The body is too dark to see any carbonation, but there is a little haze visible. 4/5
Smell: Strong lightly-toasted malt character that is reminiscent of rye or pumpernickel, with traces of dark chocolate. Spicy hints caraway work their way in as well as a slight whiff of molasses. A slightly funky sourdough-like yeast character provides an additional dimension to the malts. There are also traces of herbal noble hop aromas that flit around in the background. Somewhat straightforward balance, but very bold, with a well-defined malt profile. 4.5/5
Taste: A surprising mild to moderate tartness extracts a lot of the heady spice flavors, which naturally marries the sharper aspects of the rye to the caraway seed as well as some of the hop flavors. Nonetheless, a background of moderate sweetness enforces the rustic breadiness which delves deep into wheat toast and even roasted hazelnut. Quite unique while somehow retaining excellent balance. 4/5
Mouthfeel: Medium body, with a brisk carbonation which contrasts with the darker malt notes and makes the drink feel surprisingly light. There is some tangible alcoholic heat though, which meshes well with the tactile tartness. 3.5/5
Overall: Certainly a rye beer that isn’t afraid to pull out all the stops. Has an impressively balanced intensity that is quintessentially American, even though it sometimes glosses over the finer details of the roggenbier style. 4/5
Eye Choirs 