Beer Review #27 – English Pale Ales

Anderson Valley’s ‘Boont ESB’

English pale ales, or ‘bitters’, occupy a unique place in the genealogy of beer. Dry-roasted by coke, the pale malts used to make this style of beer are the originator of the general term ‘pale ale’. Although many other styles of pale ales eventually developed, the unique toasted malt, light fruit and English hop flavors of bitters remain a distinctive style. Though not wildly popular in the craft beer scene, where beer styles with bolder flavors and more alcohol are favored, the richest, strongest English pale ale, the ‘extra special bitter’ (or ESB) can still be found somewhat frequently.

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‘BOONT ESB’ – ANDERSON VALLEY – Extra Special Bitter – 6.80% ABV (Eye Choir’s Choice)

Appearance: Poured a bright sunset orange with a one finger, light tan head. There is a hint of fine haziness, though the minimal carbonation can easily be seen. 4.5/5

Smell: Aromas are very well-balanced, with a punchy malt redolent of whole grain biscuits and hints of caramel, as well as some grassy, slightly floral hops and slight notes of ripe orange. Has the backbone of an ESB, but provides a unique take on the details. Really dynamic with a balance that is quite layered. 4.5/5

Taste: Surprisingly strong, with mild to moderate sweetness and moderate bitterness that turns stronger in the finish. The lingering bitterness fleshes out the hops to include spicy cedar and the malt to have notes of honey. The yeast adds subtle notes of hay and apricot esters as the drink warms. In your face, but has all the subtleties of a standard ESB, and more. 4/5

Mouthfeel: Medium to light body, with a strong creamy mouthfeel that is offset by moderate carbonation and a mild alcohol heat which balances the strength of the flavors in the beer and contributes to an especially long finish. 4.5/5

Overall: Has an intense, very hop-forward taste, but digging down reveals many subtleties. For once, an ESB that has a touch of American style, yet doesn’t simply taste like an American pale ale. 4.5/5

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‘HONKER’S ALE’ – GOOSE ISLAND – Special Bitter – 4.30% ABV

Appearance: Poured a moderate copper orange with an off-white, two finger head. A very mild haze is visible, though no carbonation can be seen. 3.5/5

Smell: Aroma consists of a woody, citric, and slightly resinous hops with a background of mild, bready malts which has hints of toffee, and a mild peach fruit ester character. The profile is very clean, but is overall perhaps a little weak. 3.5/5

Taste: Echoes the aroma, with a somewhat stronger malt presence which is manages to quite dry, with a mild tartness that highlights grapefruit and apricot notes. Vaguely mineral, with just enough bitterness to last into a clean finish. 4/5

Mouthfeel: Medium to light bodied, with a reasonably smooth mouthfeel and moderate to light carbonation. No alcoholic heat, and very quaffable. 3.5/5

Overall: Fairly good balance and enjoyable, but there’s nothing outstanding or particularly inventive in any way. At times lacks complexity, but still remains a nice session beer. 3.5/5

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‘471 EXTRA ESB’ – BRECKENRIDGE – Extra Special Bitter – 7.80% ABV

Appearance: Poured a dark, nearly opaque reddish-brown with a one finger, light tan head. A small amount of carbonation can barely be seen in the body. 3.5/5

Smell: The malt aroma predominates, displaying a deep nutty caramel with touches of bread and even chocolate. There are also hints of dark fruit such as cherries and plums as well as a background of soft herbal earthy hops. 4/5

Taste: A good, smooth balance of mild to moderate sweetness and bitterness which heightens the contrast between the rich caramel malt and the earthy hops, which begin to reveal floral notes. Both components are somewhat delicate, but their combined breadth is more than the sum of its parts. 4/5

Mouthfeel: Medium to light body with a very loose, smooth mouthfeel uplifted by mild to moderate carbonation. Combined with a lack of alcoholic heat (despite the alcohol content), this makes for a easy-to-drink brew. 4/5

Overall: Mild, but unique and very well-balanced, which leads to a beer that is unassuming at first glance, but on deeper exploration yields a bounty of interesting and pleasing contrasts. 4/5

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‘FULLER’S ESB’ – FULLER SMITH & TURNER – Extra Special Bitter – 5.90% ABV

Appearance: Poured a nearly transparent, mildly dark orange with an off-white, one finger head. A small amount of carbonation is visible. 3.5/5

Smell:  Predominantly an English hop aroma that is floral and earthy with a touch of spice, alongside a lightly roasted biscuit malt character. Balanced and not without a good amount of complexity, such as background notes of mild fruits, such as pears. 4/5

Taste: Slightly malt-forward and moderately sweet, though the bitterness carries into the finish quite strongly, where it combines with the earthiness of the hops to enrich the malt flavor. The faint tartness is appropriate for the fruit esters, and as well it contrasts the malt sweetness nicely. 4/5

Mouthfeel: Medium to light bodied, with a very smooth, creamy texture, moderately low carbonation, and no alcoholic heat. Light and refreshing without seeming too thin or watery. 4/5

Overall: Very enjoyable and drinks easily, but has an interesting array of hop aromas that find themselves in a great, dynamic balance with the rest of the flavors in the beer. 4/5